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Star Sapphire and Diamond Brooch by Bolin

Title Star Sapphire and Diamond Brooch by Bolin
Year c.1908~1917
Country Russia
Maker Bolin
Material Sapphire, Diamonds, Platinum
Size L34mm, W38mm
Collection Private Collection

Description

Gold and silver brooch, centered on a large oval star sapphire bordered by twin diamond cornucopiae and a larger cushion shaped diamond.  Signed S.S.. Bolin

 

Commentary

Russian jeweller Bolin was founded in1830’s by Carl Edvard Bolin in St. Petersburg. In 1850’s his younger brother, Henrik Conrad Bolin, founded in Moscow the Bolin & Jahn Co. later appointed as a court jeweller. After the death of Henrik Bolin in1888 the business was succeeded by his son, Vasili Andreiewitch. After the retirement of Jahn, the partner, two shops in St. Petersburg and Moscow were united and the company became the most distinguished jeweller next to Hahn’s. The workshop of Bolin produced excellent pieces of jewellery for the circle of nobles for long years before Fabergé and Hahn’s gained renown. They especially preferred to make jewels of impressive effect using different coloured precious stones contrasting each other.

As the sign inscribed S. S. indicates this star sapphire brooch seems to have been wrought out by the workshop of Sophia Schwan and the almost invisible setting of the sapphire, as shown in this example, was the speciality of Bolin.

Literature:

Magdalena Ribbing, Jewellery & Silver for Tsars, Queens and others: W. A. Bolin 200 Years, 1996, St. Petersburg, Moscow, Stockholm

Exhibit: The Stockholm Castle, October1996-January1997

 

Diana Scarisbrick MA, FSA

Jewellery Historian