">
Cravat or Scarf ring by René Lalique
| Title | Cravat or Scarf ring by René Lalique |
| Year | c.1900 |
| Country | France |
| Artist | René Lalique |
| Material | Enamel, Gold |
| Size | L21.5mm, W30mm, H17mm |
Description
A French Art Nouveau yellow gold and enamel cravat or scarf ring by René Lalique, circa 1900, the plain hinged wide band expanding towards the front representing a nymph, face turned upwards, her right arm raised, and holding an ornate chalice in her left hand, seated amidst golden clouds broken with patches of mauve blue enamel, the band interior inscribed ‘18 Août 1900’ and with a sharp pointed pin to keep the cravat or scarf in place, engraved LALIQUE on the band exterior, stamped with French control marks for gold
Commentary
Commentary: This cravat or scarf ring, in French coulant de cravat, belongs to the very small group of jewels designed for men by René Lalique, (1860-1945) leader of the Art Nouveau movement. These were cuff links, rings, tie-pins and as here, the scarf ring, complete with thorn-like pin inside ensuring that neither the cravat nor the ring would move. Like his finger rings for men it is strongly sculptural in character, and represents one of Lalique’s favourite themes, a young woman; here, her slender nude figure with attenuated limbs merging with the stylised clouds within a crepuscular sky. Her elegance is enhanced by the choice of the elongated boat-shaped Grecian chalice, associated here with the pleasures of drinking wine. Moreover, in spite of the small scale, the scarf ring illustrates the artist’s originality and the quality of his craftsmanship. It would have been worn by one of Lalique’s many admirers in the Parisian literary and political world, one of the famous being Comte Robert de Montesquiou who wrote an essay describing the thrill of visiting Lalique’s shop. Significantly, the date 18 August 1900 inscribed within the scarf ring coincides with the Paris Exposition Universelle, when Lalique was at the height of his fame and his stand attracted huge crowds.