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Black and White Suite by Carlo and Arthur Giuliano
| Title | Black and White Suite by Carlo and Arthur Giuliano |
| Year | c. 1900 |
| Country | English |
| Artist | Carlo and Arthur Giuliano |
| Material | Enamel, Pearl, Diamond, Gold |
Description
Gold, silver, diamond, pearl and opaque black and white enamel suite consisting of a necklace and matching bracelet. The necklace is composed of sixteen openwork three sided elements each centred on an trail of stylised leaves flanked by branching scrolls beneath a swag surmounted by five brilliant cut diamonds crowned by a heart shaped leaf and terminating with three drop shaped pearls hanging from a triple pointed motif, alternating with smaller between pieces each set with two diamonds and similarly enamelled and terminating with three drop shaped pearls. The openwork hinged bracelet is composed of seven square shaped links each divided into four sections by a cross of brilliant cut diamonds flanked by a black and white enamelled pattern of intersecting curves and straight lines and branching scrolls within a border of black chevrons on a white ground between narrow black lines dotted white. In gold tooled Morocco leather box stamped inside C. GIULIANO, 115 PICCADILLY, LONDON beneath royal crown. Carlo and Arthur Giuliano London, c. 1900.
Commentary
This important suite epitomises the mastery of the techniques of the goldsmith by the firm of Giuliano, which from 1895 until 1914 was based at 115, Piccadilly, under the management of Carlo and Arthur Giuliano. The quality of the enamelling is remarkable as is the chasing of all the elements in both necklace and bracelet which is clearly visible on the smoothly polished backs. The Italian founder, Carlo Giuliano (1835-1895) made his name through his revival of these techniques and in this case by adopting the sober black and white opaque enamelling devised by the seventeenth century jeweller to show pearls and diamonds to advantage. Here the intricate but ordered openwork pattern has been combined with the discreet glitter of diamonds and the soft, silvery sheen of pearls in a suite designed to be worn at a “full dress” formal event in London at the turn of the century. The elaborate necklace would have filled the low cut necklace of a fashionable evening gown, emphasising the wearer’s white marble- like skin, and the wide bracelet would have stood out against the long white gloves covering her arm. For another black and white enamelled necklace cf. G. Munn, Castellani & Giuliano (London 1984) pl. 139, with invoice dated 1900 from the shop of C&A Giuliano Art Jewellers, Goldsmiths, Silversmiths and Diamond Merchants. The royal crown indicates the patronage of Queen Victoria and that of her son, Edward VII and his wife, Queen Alexandra. As Giuliano’s unmistakably historical style appealed to rich women of artistic tastes this suite would have been commissioned by a member of the London intelligentsia who wanted to express her individuality and therefore required something different from the conventional diamond jewellery associated with the mainstream London houses.